CAPOTE E CAPELO

According to Rogério Sousa, an Azorean native, the Capote e Capelo is a distinct garment from the Azores, and for a very long time it was the traditional costume for women there. Over time it faded out of use, becoming quite a peculiar historical oddity. The “Capote e Capelo” consisted of two separate pieces, both made of thick English cloth, dark blue or black, completely covering a woman’s body, allowing only a glimpse of her face. The “Capote” was a round cape that reached to the feet; the “Capelo” was the sizeable head covering, supported by a bow, made of whale bone, and a hemp lining. Its origin is little known... It’s been said that it was imported from Flanders, while others argue that it’s an adaptation of cloaks and hoods that were fashionable in Portugal in the 17th and 18th centuries. All that is certain is that for a long time it was the traditional costume of the Azorean woman. 

Capote e Capelo was an inherited piece of clothing, passed down from generation to generation, sometimes serving the whole family. It was also a mandatory piece of the bride’s dowry and served as engagement attire. For the poorest of women, their great ambition was to own a Capote e Capelo of their own. It was worn by women throughout the Azores until around the 1950s. Its arrangement varied from island to island throughout the archipelago. The larger and arguably stranger looking Capelo was the tradition of the islands of Faial and Santa Maria. The one in Faial had the imposing and grandiose shape of a wedge over the shoulders, which extended forward by more than a foot. The Capelo of São Miguel’s was the opposite, and longer to the rear.

To the rest of the world, the Capote e Capelo is rarely recognized or has never been seen at all. To many it is a mysterious, bizarre, and even frightening ensemble. When viewing old black and white photographs of the women who wore them, there is no visual context to explain the other-worldly appearance they bear. The presence and power of the Capote e Capelo evokes an uncanny feeling to those who are unfamiliar.